For cabinets up to 65” wide and sinks up to 400 lbs.
- 304 Stainless Steel
- Made in the USA
- Since 2009
- Previously Known As the In-Sink Mounting System
- Fast – Save installation time and money
- Easy – Professional results due to unlimited, precision adjustment even after countertop is installed
- 100% stainless steel construction ensures no mold and no rot from future water seepage
- Tested to over 400 lbs
- Support sinks up to 46” wide
- Low profile support rails provide more room for plumbing connections, disposal installation and storage
- Use to mount sink after countertop has been installed.
- No mechanical fastening or modifications to countertop = no potential countertop damage
- Perfect solution for under mount, flush mount and raised mount sinks
- Apron and standard sinks
- Rimless and rimmed sinks
- Easy sink removal at any time
- Installs with basic hand tools (drill, phillips screwdriver, adjustable wrench, tape measure and level)
The Ultimate Sink Mounting Solution
Pete’s Sink Mount is the mounting system you have been searching for to install your new kitchen sink. Originally developed for premium quality kitchen sinks that are heavy and not exactly “square”, many current users are finding Pete’s Sink Mount is also the perfect device for lightweight stainless undermount sinks because adhesives will fail over time and slab materials (granite, quartz composite, etc.) were not intended to be notched for sink mounting clips.
Whether you are doing an original installation or are re-installing a sink after mounting failure, Pete’s Sink Mount not only provides the strength but also the flexibility to place the sink in exactly the right position at any time before, during and after countertop installation.
Pete’s Sink Mount with 300 lbs
What folks are saying…
The Story
While doing a down to the studs kitchen remodel several years ago, (including the floor and ceiling) I had everything figured out except, “How do I install this 130 lb. undermount apron sink?”
My project incorporated the Rohl RC3018 Shaws Original fireclay farmhouse sink. I searched the internet, talked to friends, and went to high end cabinet and fixture show rooms and came up empty handed. I settled on the typical 2×4 and shim method for my sink installation.
If you have installed a fireclay sink, you have noticed that the fixture is not quite square. I had my sink in position and affixed to the 2x4s and shims with thick beads of silicone prior to the countertop crew making the template (I used Silestone quartz composite). I turned my back for 15 seconds only to find one of the crew trying to raise a corner of my sink with a flat blade screwdriver! I showed him with my 6’ level that the sink was aligned with the countertop plane as good as possible, and to leave it alone. Long story short, the template was made, and a week later the countertop was installed. I applied the sealant between the countertop and sink, and the job was finished.
Regardless, I was frustrated that there was not a better way to install the sink. I was confident I had the sink positioned well, but I wanted the option of being able to fine tune the position of the sink to the countertop after installation. 2×4’s (some people use plywood) obviously work, but they take a lot of room making it a bit harder to get the disposal in place and limit the vertical storage space under the sink. If I needed to make any adjustments after the countertop was installed, I was out of luck.
If there is ever any kind of leak, the wood will get wet and potentially get moldy. In extreme cases, it could start to rot, and even fail over time. I also worry, to this day, that someone in the house will smack the front of the sink with a large Le Creuset piece and damage it, requiring me to replace the sink. I would rather lower the sink away from the countertop in a controlled manner and pull it out the front than try to remove 2x4s and somehow brace the sink before lowering it enough to remove it.
To satisfy my curiosity for a better solution and for the fun of pursuing a patent I set out to “build a better mousetrap”. This device may be overkill for the application but I wanted to build the best possible solution for the consumer. For those installing a high end kitchen where only the best will do, this is the device you have been searching for.
For those who need to correct a problem with their existing installation and ensure they will not have future problems, this is the device you have been searching for.
Thank you for taking the time to read my story about how the Pete’s Home Innovations Sink Mount came to be.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will Pete’s Sink Mount save me money?
Most people say YES! The added cost of labor and materials required to build a custom mount into your cabinet is typically several hundred dollars and if anything with the cabinet or countertop is slightly off then it will require additional labor and materials to correct the fit. Any cabinet issues will likely delay countertop templating and your entire project. Pete’s Sink Mount allows precise placement and adjustment of your sink before, during and even after countertop installation if necessary.
If you ever have a problem with your sink and it needs to be lowered, removed or replaced you have the freedom to do so with Pete’s Sink Mount, saving you time and money in the future.
My drain is offset to the back of the sink. Can I still use Pete’s Sink Mount?
Absolutely! Mount the brackets and support rail for the back of the sink so that the sink sit’s on as much of the support rail as you can, while leaving enough room for plumbing connections. The sink will rest on one of the two horizontal surfaces of this back rail, providing more than enough strength to support your sink.
To prevent chafing of any plumbing lines, especially a flexible spray nozzle hose, place a piece of ½ flexible tubing cut lengthwise like a “C” onto the exposed rear piece of metal.
How much vertical adjustment is there?
1 3/8 inches. This allows plenty of vertical adjustment to not only install the sink but in the event you ever need to remove your sink you will be able to lower it from the countertop for removal.
Several clients have replaced “crazed” fireclay sinks or installed new sinks when existing countertops are in place. The sink mount kit is installed with the brackets in the “lower” position then the sink is slid into the cabinet from the front to rest on the support rails. The brackets are then adjusted “up” to mate the sink with the countertop. This same technique is also used to rectify lite weight stainless rimmed sinks when the adhesive or clips have failed and the sink has fallen down.
How wide (or narrow) can my cabinet be?
The support bars slide back and forth laterally and provide a good amount of flexibility to provide an exact width. The 25 ½” – 32” option will fit
a cabinet with a minimum INSIDE width of 25 ½” and extend to approximately 32”.
The 32” – 47 ½’ option will fit a cabinet with a minimum INSIDE width of 32” and extend to approximately 47 ½”.
If your cabinet INSIDE width is less than 25 ½” please email Pete ([email protected]) so your support rails can be cut down to fit your application (common for prep sinks).
If your cabinet INSIDE is wider than 47 ½” please email Pete ([email protected]). An option is available to extend the support rails out to 74”.
My sink has “feet” on the bottom (Kohler Whitehaven sinks)
No problem! Kohler Whitehaven sinks are a great example of sinks with feet. The feet are simply set in the “bottom” of the support rail channels. Pete’s Sink Mount has been used for many Kohler Whitehaven sink installations.
How to install a Kohler Whitehaven with Pete’s Sink Mount
Please note that some sinks, typically only sinks with cast “feet” may required grinding/cutting back a portion of the support rails to clear the drain flange. This does not impact the structural integrity of the support rails. Please contact Pete ([email protected]) with any specific sink installation questions. Please also provide the make and model number of the sink.
My sink bottom is not flat.
No problem! The support rails and brackets have built in “play” to allow for variances in the sink bottom. The shape of each support rail channel provide strength and two horizontal surfaces for the sink to rest on. In some cases the sink may only rest on one horizontal surface of each support rail.
Shaws Original fireclay sinks are a great example of sinks that are not flat or “true” on the bottom and the support rails are better than flat 2x4s or plywood at adapting to the sink bottom. Lite Weight stainless sinks (often with rims) are also a great example of sinks with bottoms that are sloped for drainage. The play in the brackets and rails easily adapt to the sloped sink bottom. However, the sink may sit on only one horizontal support of each support rail but this is more than enough support and far superior to supporting the sink by the rim.
My sink has a rim. Why is Pete’s Sink Mount kit better than attaching the rim to the countertop?
Rimmed sinks are typically attached to the countertop using three methods. All methods use the rim to “hang” the sink in position. Supporting the sink from the bottom is a far more robust and sturdy solution while offering much greater flexibility in placement of the sink.
- Construction Adhesive: Commonly used for lite weight stainless sinks. The sink is basically glued to the bottom of the countertop. The sink will be clamped in place for a few days while the glue dries. Works for a few years before the weight, vibration and moisture causes the adhesive to fail, usually when filled with water and dirty dishes.
- Clips: Used to attach the sink rim to the countertop by notching the countertop material. Some countertop material, such as granite, is very brittle and will eventually chip and break. The notches are not very deep into the countertop material so there is minimal strength holding the fasteners/clips to the countertop while weight is continually pulling down on the slips. Any notching of the countertop also makes weak spots in the countertop.
- Rails and Screws: require notching the top of the cabinet to install rail pieces which have screws that are used to push up on the rim so the rim makes contact with the countertop. Rails cannot be removed without removing the countertop.
Contact Us
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